Vegan in Japan; a Survival Guide!
As I proved in my last three posts, it's a myth that it's impossible to be vegan in Japan. It seems like it's a rumor that's been going around for ages & while things have certainly gotten easier with the booming macrobiotic scene, Buddhist cuisine, or Shojin Ryori is animal free cooking that has been going for thousands of years. It's not a foreign concept that foods would be vegan in a culture where dairy is rarely used, although the word vegan is still very much unknown in Japan.
So, while it's certainly possible to be vegan in Japan, it's not like in other countries where you can let them know you're vegan & they'll whip something up.
Common mistakes vegetarians make in Japan are with things that are normally veg-friendly, but in Japan are not. Soups contain fish stock, potato chips can have chicken or beef powder on them, soy sauce can contain fish, soy milk contains animal derived calcium, & bonito (fish) flakes run rampant & show up on things as simple as white rice. My recommendation is to seek out places that are aware of veganism, but honestly, this can add up financially. Still, there are many options out there, so here's a guide to tricks & treats in Japan.
Getting around! First of all, you NEED a Tokyo City Atlas. These guides not only help you navigate the confusing & nonsequencial addressing system in Japan, but it also has maps of the railways & transit options. Another thing I strongly suggest is a Japan Rail Pass, which may seem expensive, but will cover all of your travel from to & from the airport, rides all over the country on the Shinkansen, & travel within Tokyo.
It pays for itself quickly if you visit places outside Tokyo. Next, I recommend picking up the Japan Vegan Restaurant Pocketguide. We bought ours in the Shinjuku Kinokuniya bookstore, but you may want to purchase yours in advance. While we had a lot of mishaps with this guide, like unclear hours of operation & places no longer existing, ultimately, it was a useful. Another item you may want is the Vegan Passport, which can be used to explain veganism all around the world. Now, on to the food!
An amazing thing we found out from the Wandering Vegans that made us jump for joy was Japan has Vegan Doughnuts! New York City staple Doughnut Plant NYC has been making egg-free doughnuts 1994, using a 1910 recipe from the owner's Grandfather, but unfortunately, their doughnuts in the States are not vegan. At their Japanese branches however, many of which are located in train stations, the special of the season was Soy Milk Doughnuts! The options available to us were Rose Hip & Ebisu Pumpkin. Both were slightly chewier & heartier than traditional doughnuts, but still fluffy & fabulous! The Rose Hip was covered in sweet, pink frosting that reminded me of a Simpsons pink doughnut, while the Pumpkin was well spiced & our favorite of the two. We had also heard there was a Soy Milk Cinnamon Bun & on our last day, we tracked it down! Thick & chewy with not only a thin glaze, but a thick sugary coating as well, this bready bun was lightly spiced with walnuts & raisins rolled up in to it. Now if only we can get the NYC locations to carry the soy milk options! Letter writing powers, activate!
Convenience Stores or "konbini" are everywhere in Japan; 7 Eleven, AM PM, Family Mart, Lawson, they're on every corner. The good thing is they have a fair amount of options for vegans. One such option is sushi, with the most common variety being the rice filled tofu pockets called Inari. You'll find these at every konbini, as well as a small selection of other rolls like Natto (fermented soybean) rolls & cucumber rolls. Beware, the soy sauce packets could contain fish, so you may want to buy your own soy sauce to be sure. Another common option is Onigiri, a triangle or oval of white rice with a filling, wrapped in nori. Many onigiri contain fish, but there are also options like Umeboshi & Kombu. Once again, these can contain "katsuobushi" or bonito fish flakes, but my photos contain a type I know is safe, do your research or attempt to ask a clerk about other brands.
On the crunchy side of things, there's a few snacks vegans can partake in, but buyer beware, most chips have animal based ingredients in them! Calbee produces two options, their plain potato chips being the only vegan potato chips in Japan, & their Veggie flavored chips. Tohato has "Potato Ring Snack", which are little rings of potato, but make sure you get the white bag, as the others contain chicken. Rice Crackers or Senbei are another option which you'll find many places, but many contain fish! Oh, it never ends, right? Please check out my photos to see the actual bags of these items, so you know what they look like. We carried print outs or digital versions on our phones of items we knew were safe. Trust me, you won't be reading packages!
To quench your thirst, there's refreshing green tea or beer from the many vending machines, of course, but there's also soy milk available in shops! Some soy milk contains oyster calcium, so stick to the brand pictured for a tasty range of flavors. I believe we tried all of the flavors, which were Vanilla, Chocolate, Banana, Strawberry, Matcha, & seasonal options; Sweet Potato & Chestnut! We enjoyed them all, especially the seasonal flavors, plus the strawberry & banana tasted like Quik mix or other powdered drinks from your childhood. These little soy milk boxes are readily available in most shops, so drink up!
Typically, when it comes to sweets, not many options are available in a corner mart, but you'll find a few to enjoy in Japan! My favorite treat was actually from Seiyu Supermarket, but supposedly it's available in some corner stores as well (although none I went in). Kracie makes an amazingly creamy & delicious soy ice cream that comes in Vanilla, Chocolate, Strawberry, & Matcha (Green Tea).
It reminded me of those little cups of vanilla ice cream with chocolate swirl that you would eat in elementary school on special occasions! Another option is a Yuzu Lemon Sorbet that is available in some Family Mart locations, a bit icy, but still tangy & lovely. You must look for the specific brand pictured, as most sorbets in Japan have milk in them. Finally, we found ourselves hooked on these crazy Gari Gari Kun popsicles that are available in every convenience mart! They come in a few flavors like Soda, Cola, Orange, & Muscat grape, & seem to have a hard outer layer with an icy center. The blue icy pop, "Soda" was by far our favorite & I even bought myself a Gari Gari Kun pen at Tokyu Hands to pledge my love for the man with the giant mouth on the outside of the wrapper!
One more treat you'll find all over Japan is Daifuku, or Mochi. Sweets shop around tourist areas & markets, or even convenience marts will have these glutenous rice balls filled with various sweetened smooth fillings. The most common flavor we saw was Azuki, aka red bean paste, but we were also happy to find Chestnut paste filled. We tried one with whole red beans in it & I have to say, I don't recommend it! The beans were slightly firm & chalky, distracting from the smooth paste in the center. Kittee told me to look for Ichigo Daifuku, which has a strawberry in the middle, but they must have been out of season by the time we were there.
Finally, there is a fast & easy option you can find all over Japan when you're in a pinch or if you just want to eat on the cheap, MOS Burger. A fast food burger joint, like those in America, MOS Burger has an English menu with photos & one standard vegan option, a Kinpira Burger. Bascially, the Kinpira burger is two rice patty buns, filled with a sheet of nori, plus pickled burdock & carrot pieces with sesame seeds. It's small, tasty, & will hit the spot! Those with big appetites, may want to order two. We ate at MOS Burger in Nara, when we found out the other two veg-friendly options in town were closed for the day. It's great to have an option when Plan A isn't available!
We adored Japan & while we had a few moment of frustration when it came to food,
it was typically because a restaurant we had planned to eat at was closed, not because we lacked options in moment of hunger. With a bit of planning, veganism in Japan is not difficult, so get out there & explore! Don't forget to to go my Flickr account for a complete visual guide to Japanese Vegan food. I leave you with a photo of Ryan & I at Kinkaku-ji in Kyoto. When we went to Japan for our honeymoon in 2004, I was struck by how amazing the Golden Pavilion was, & when I started working on my tattoo sleeve, I knew Kinkaku-ji had to be included. While it's not yet finished, in the photo you can see my Golden Pavilion tattoo on my upper arm, right next to the actual place! I think it's pretty clear, I love Japan!
Tokyo A Go Go; Part 2!
As you saw in part 1 of my Japan coverage, the options for vegan food in Tokyo aren't lacking. Of course, that was only half of the fun, so get ready for more delectable vegan dining in the Land of the Rising Sun!

On a drizzly afternoon, we headed to Der Akkord bakery, home of vegan, organic breads & pastries for some carby goodness. The small bakery on a side street instantly welcomed us with the smell of fresh bread & the staff was warm & inviting, offering us samples right away. We couldn't help but order way-too-many items! We started with a steamed bun filled with beans & curry, plus a partial loaf of the soft & hearty Sesambrot, then moved on to their Fruchtebrot, at the suggestion of Mel from Veglicious. This chewy bread with 2 types of raisins & walnuts is SO good & took me back to the days of ordering Raisin Bread from Grain D'or with my Mom. We also sampled some of the sweets available, the Apple Pie & Pumpkin Pie, which have a whole wheat biscuit-like crust that's almost savory with lightly sweetened fillings, & the Cocoa Banana Cake, which almost seemed like a raw cake made from bananas & walnuts. As if we hadn't ordered enough, the staff was kind enough to give us a free Azuki filled roll & a chewy, delicious roll raisin flecked roll called "Kurbisbrot"!
Later that night, we headed out intending to have a night of drinks & karaoke with Dan & Laura, but imagine our surprise when our destination was closed for a holiday! (This is far too common in Japan.) Luckily, we had a map with vegan options marked & despite the rain, we hiked along the river, where we saw the largest toad I've ever seen, & made our way to the primarily vegan Cafe 8 (honey is used in some cookies). A favorite of local veggies, with multiple cookbooks under their belts, Cafe 8 has a bit of a posh atmosphere, unlike their casual eatery, Pure Cafe.
Still, we felt welcome at our candlelit table, as we ordered up a starter of Fried Tempeh & Avocado in Teriyaki Sauce. These little bites were delicious with their crisp tempeh, avocado slices, & lotus root in a tasty teriyaki sauce! The Seasonal Vegetables with Herbs were a little oily, but an amazing assortment of Japanese vegetables like Burdock, Green Pumpkin, Purple Yam, plus other roots & veggies I've never had before! The "Tofu Hamburg Steak" was a familar patty, this one made of tofu & tempeh, in a tomato based sauce. It was served up with a salad in Tahini sauce & a side of roasted Potatoes & smoky Mushrooms. For dessert, the Apple Crumble Cake was a nice finish to the meal with it's sweet apple pieces & crunchy crumbs with a bready cake. The Caramel Banana Pudding also delighted us with it's soft bread, sweet banana pieces, & a bit of caramel, with a side of tofu cream, that was a bit beany, but not bad. I can see why locals love Cafe 8!
Eat More Greens is a vegetarian cafe & bakery with mainly vegan dishes, which are clearly marked on the menu. Claiming to take their cues from the cafes of the Lower East Side & East Village of New York, we expected to feel right at home, as those are two of my favorite places to be & luckily, that was the case! We started with the amazing Autumn Potato Salad which was an assortment of both crisp & soft vegetables in a creamy sauce that we loved so much, we seriously debated ordering seconds.
Next, the Black Sesame Curry with Sweet Potatoes & Mushrooms was a hearty, Indian inspired dish with lentils, rice, & a delicious salad. The Pumpkin Moussaka was a creamy, delicious dish with pumpkin, 2 types of mushrooms, tomato, & a crisp top covered in pumpkin pieces & bread crumbs. I savored each bite! Unfortunately, the desserts were a letdown after the excellent food. I was excited to see an Eclair on the menu, but in the end it was a dense bread roll, cut & filled with pastry cream & topped in chocolate with almond bits. Ryan likened it to a hot dog bun, yikes! The Chocolate Gateau fared better with it's dense, rich, chocolate with a raspberry compote, but the seeds from the raspberry were so distracting, I couldn't enjoy it. The star of the show is supposed to be their cinnamon roll, but they were out when we dined there. Overall, we LOVED Eat More Greens & would certainly recommend it. We found the portions to be larger than most Japanese restaurants & left very satisfied.
Hanada Rosso is a sleek cafe hidden in a building off right off Meiji Dori, just a jump away from the famous Takeshita Dori in Harajuku. Decorated in all white with adorable accents like hot pink chopsticks, I loved the visuals of this dining spot. We opted for the Chef Special, which not only rotates daily, but only 10 are available each day. A delicious set of Katsu with teriyaki & mayo sauces over brown rice with cabbage was served up, along with a side of salad in a light, oily dressing.
We also had the "Vegetable Hamburger Steak", another bun-less burger, although this came with a baguette on the side. It was dressed in a tomato sauce, of course, but with very thin noodles as well, very "American". Not so American, was the side of Lotus Root & other local vegetables in a sesame dressing. We finished with two desserts, one being the special of the day, which was described as Chocolate cake in Yuzu sauce. It wasn't very sweet & more like a zucchini bread with a chocolate sauce & soy foam. Many desserts at macrobiotic places are "healthy" & this was no exception. The parfait threw us for a loop, in addition to soy ice cream, it had 2 types of dango, soy foam, & a coffee drink poured in to it, but it also had BEANS! Yes, there were whole beans floating in my parfait. I'd like to say it was delicious, but it was more strange than anything else.
While Portland has a vegan bar, the last place you'd expect to find a vegan drinking establishment is likely Japan. Well, NON is a vegan izakaya right in Tokyo serving up sake, beer, & a large selection of food. They don't speak a word of English, but there's an English menu to save you from playing the guessing game. The awesome Gabrielle from The Nutritional Yeast Bandwagon was in town & joined us for this meal & we all laughed as we tried to interpret exactly what we would be eating. Izakaya dining consists small dishes to be shared, so we ordered a ton of food for the 3 of us to sample! We started with a basic tofu & potato dish & a fried freeze dried tofu dish that didn't have a ton of flavor. Luckily, a tasty Miso Soup with 3 types of mushrooms & fresh vegetables came next & made our bellies happy.
The pickled vegetables left a bit to be desired, due mainly to the surplus of Konnyaku, aka Devil's Tongue, a gelatinous, flavorless strip of who-knows-what. We all agreed that we weren't fans of konnyaku, no matter where we had tried it during our travels! Ryan wanted sushi, so he opted for some rolls as well. Next up was soft, delicious, freshly made tofu with sesame & ginger! There's nothing like freshly made tofu. Gabrielle & I fawned over it for ages! We also enjoyed the Soymilk Ramen, which was creamy & well spiced with flavorful vegetables like cabbage & carrot. Soft, with crisp edges, the vegetable filled Korean Pancakes also hit the spot & we loved the sauce they came with. Finally, the Katsu was fried & covered in a thick, crunchy coating. NON is a great experience & certainly somewhere I would return!
Before heading to the airport, we intended to eat a nice meal at Brown Rice Cafe, a whole food macrobiotic cafe, frequented by ladies who lunch.
Due to the long wait, we realized we didn't have enough time, but luckily, there's Brown Rice Deli right there as well! The deli has a selection of bento boxes & dishes, all vegan, as well as baked goods, some of which are vegan & are clearly marked. We opted for a tasty bento with brown rice, topped in tempeh & curry sauce, with a side of pickled vegetables, a vegetable sesame salad, & umeboshi plum. We also had Inari that was stuffed with brown rice & curry, which was not like the sweet Inari we're used to. They seem to like the curry at Brown Rice Deli, so we also had a bowl of the curry which was hearty with many types of beans, lentils, & chickpeas in a spiced tomato curry sauce. For a treat, we had two muffins, the so called "Tofu Muffin" which was fluffy & lightly sweetened, filled with walnuts, & topped with roasted soybeans, & the Pumpkin Muffin which was sadly underspiced, but filled with chunks of pumpkin slices & pepitas, & topped with a Oat & Pepita crumb top. Overall, Brown Rice is a good option whether you're dining in or taking out.
I have no complaints about the vegan options in Tokyo! It was nice to have a selection of places to go to in a country known for fish based dishes. In fact, we didn't even make it to all of the places recommended to us by either guidebooks or the internet! It's amazing what you can find with a bit of research. Next up, Kyoto & Nara, stay tuned!
Tokyo A Go Go, Part 1!
I'm back from Japan & wow, what a whirlwind! While I did take in some slower paced sights in Kyoto & Nara, we spent a large portion of our trip in Tokyo, eating lots of food & dodging people on the busy sidewalks. You may be surprised to know that Tokyo has a fair amount of vegan restaurants, mainly due to the macrobiotic scene & their quest for healthy living. We had many meals in Tokyo & were unable to eat at even half of the options available to us! Here's part one of two of my guide to vegan dining in Tokyo, Japan!
We started our dining adventures at Chaya Macrobiotic, which is the formal restaurant of Los Angeles based M Cafe de Chaya. Located on the 7th floor of Isetan department store in Shinjuku, this is a popular place for ladies who lunch, so don't be surprised if there's a wait. Chaya has multiple locations with this one having a 1/2 vegan, 1/2 fish menu, but other locations are 100% vegan. We opted for the Chef's Lunch Special, which may seem pricey at approximately $30 per person, but with a starter, drink, rice or bread, & dessert included in the price, it's a fair price for an upscale spot.
We loved the two breads served to us, one with fruit & walnut pieces, the other wheat with a delicious sesame spread. We couldn't say no when we were offered more! For appetizers, we shared creamy Mushroom & Sweet Potato Croquettes with a tangy tartar sauce, a side of salad, & a cold dish of seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, & beans topped in a soy mayonnaise sauce. For entrees, I had a vegetable curry with plump beans, millet, enoki mushroom, pumpkin, & zucchini, topped in a tofu cream. Ryan had the Seitan Burger, which turned out to be a bread-less, giant meatball in sauce with a side of local vegetables like lotus root & pumpkin. For dessert, I opted for the Mont Blanc, a popular Japanese dessert. While the cake was dry, the moist, thick filling & chestnut paste topping were delicious. Ryan had the Pumpkin Roll, a lightly sweetened, dense pumpkin cake rolled with a creamy filling & pumpkin seeds. We washed them down with rice milk & maple sugar sweetened tea!
After a walk through Shinjuku National Park, where we saw the largest spiders known to man, we headed to Omotesando Hills near Harajuku for dinner at Pure Cafe. Pure Cafe is housed inside the Aveda building down a side street off the main shopping drag & is one of the only places you can dine late in Tokyo with last order bring at 10pm.
We showed up quite late, meaning a fair amount of dishes had run out for the day, but there was still a good selection. We started with samosas, which I wouldn't call Indian spiced, but they were tasty. I opted for the Ratatouille which was a cold dish of lotus root, carrot, potato, & other vegetables in a tomato based sauce. Ryan had the "soy vegeburg" which was a flavorful patty made from tofu & spices, a bit mushy, but still good, with a side of seemingly undressed salad. Pure Cafe is known for their desserts, so we had to indulge! The Mocha Cocoa Tart had a thick crust with a bittersweet chocolate tofu filling, much like the chocolate tofu pies that are commonplace for vegan dessert. The Apple Crumble was sweet with soft apples & crusty edges, a maple drizzle, & delicious crumble top; the clear winner in the dessert battle! We also took home peanut butter brioche & banana bread, but I can't say I was blown away by either of them.
We were lucky enough to be in town during Tokyo VegeFood Festa, so on Sunday we headed to Yoyogi Park with the Tokyo Vegan Meetup Group to taste a selection from over 100 vendors, everything vegan! One of the couples we met was Lara & Benno, the Wandering Vegans, who's blog I had found before our trip & used in my research. We browsed the many booths & started with Tsubu Tsubu Cafe, a macrobiotic vegan cafe that specializes in millet! The hot dog was very small, but packed a flavorful punch! We had heard about Taco Rice from a few people, so when we saw it on their menu, we decided to order some. This tasty dish was rice topped in sorghum, flavored with taco style seasoning, lettuce & tomato.
Finally, we ordered a Pizza which had a soft, doughy crust but was topped in tomato sauce that almost seemed like tomato paste, & polenta with corn pieces in it. Strange! It was hard to try just one of the many vendors, so next, we had delicious potato croquettes & perfect sticky brown rice in a curry sauce from Mominoki House. It was so good we wanted seconds! We walked around & sampled sweets from many vendors, but my interest was struck by a sign saying "Dango Curry". Dango is a small chewy ball made of rice flour served as a dessert, but this vendor had them in a curry sauce, something that is not commonplace. Well, it was an interesting treat, & Dango Curry is not bad, but it's not for me. Instead, the dessert I truly enjoyed was a fish shaped pastry called Taiyaki, filled with red bean paste! The outside tasted like a ice cream cone filled with a sweet, smooth azuki filling. People waited in a long line for this treat, a Japanese standard that's typically not vegan, & it was well worth it!
Vegan Healing Cafe is home of infamous "Fur Is Dead" PETA mobile
& seemingly one of the only places you'll find animal rights & veganism connected in Japan. We showed up one night around 8:40pm, about 20 minutes before they closed, only to find Japanese restaurants have a "last order" time 30 to 60 minutes before closing. We explained to the staff that we were vegan & asked for other restaurant options, but they graciously offered to feed us & boy, were we very grateful! We ordered the Tempeh Sausage dish; 3 soft, spiced sausages in a creamy sesame sauce with brown rice, as well as the Beans stew, a curry of sorts with a scoop of brown rice to absorb the sauce, Ryan likened it to Cream of Mushroom soup. We finished with the Apple Crumble, which had a firm top with not a lot of flavor, but nice apple chunks & the Soy Whip Cake which had great fluffy, whipped frosting coating a dense vanilla cake. On another visit to Vegan Healing Cafe, Ryan opted for the Fried Soy Meat which were chewy mock meat bites, fried & coated in a tangy, sweet sauce with brown rice & a salad. I had the Com Am Phu, a delicious dish with cumin scented rice, fried cabbage, carrots, peppers, & finely chopped soy meat, topped in sheets of rice paper. It was certainly my favorite dish there!
On another night, we headed out to Kichijoji to meet up with new friends & Portland Vegans, Dan & Laura at DevaDeva Cafe. DevaDeva is vegetarian cafe that is mainly vegan, with an English menu where you'll find your options clearly marked. They're known for their Yogi Burger, a veggie burger patty that comes in all sorts of flavors. Ryan opted for the Teriyaki version, which was good, but lacking in the sauce department a bit.
The paprika dusted chips were good though! At the suggestion of Dan, I ordered the Potato Corn Mayo pizza & well, it's just how it sounds. This pizza had a very thin, crisp crust, almost like a tortilla, topped in chunks of soft potato, corn, & a baked on mayo sauce for cheese. It certainly wasn't what I would call a pizza, but it was pretty darn good! I went all out & ordered 3 desserts, as they looked too good to pass up! The Orange Scented Bio Kakao Fudge Cream Cake was a bit beany & grainy, but it's chocolate flavor with a hint of orange was quite nice. The Banana Cake was a large un-frosted slice of bready cake with soft, tasty sections of banana, walnut pieces, & bits of chocolate in the top. Finally, the Apple Cake was the best of the bunch with tasty apples in a plain cake with a somewhat beany, but creamy frosting.
Overall, dining in Tokyo is pretty tasty! Stay tuned for part 2 of Tokyo A Go Go, as well as reports on Kyoto, Nara, & vegan convenience foods. Until next time.. さよなら, aka Sayonara!






